A handmade label for a bottle of Château Latif, showing a man in a fez, once worn in Latif Jiji’s native Iraq, over his Manhattan townhouse.

A handmade label for a bottle of Château Latif, showing a man in a fez, once worn in Latif Jiji’s native Iraq, over his Manhattan townhouse.

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Looking through the rooftop grapevine to the city.

Looking through the rooftop grapevine to the city.

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Latif Jiji standing on the roof of his townhouse under his grapevine, looking south toward Midtown Manhattan.

Latif Jiji standing on the roof of his townhouse under his grapevine, looking south toward Midtown Manhattan.

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Latif Jiji’s vine growing up the back of the townhouse in summer.

Latif Jiji’s vine growing up the back of the townhouse in summer.

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By late summer, grapes cover the rooftop arbor in thick bunches that block the sun.

By late summer, grapes cover the rooftop arbor in thick bunches that block the sun.

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